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Dec/Jan 2009

Features

Great Grains - Gluten-Free Flours

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If you think that gluten-free baking means you’re stuck with rice flour and cornstarch, think again. There is a world of delicious and nutritious alternative flours available made from grains, seeds, beans, tubers—and even grapes. Once you learn how to select and use these flours, you can continue making your favorite foods and add essential vitamins, minerals and fiber to your diet without compromising on taste. In addition to good flavor, many of these flours add rich hues to your baking, from the deep purple-red of cabernet flour to the buttery yellow of quinoa to the rich, whole-grain look of Montina. Use this primer to navigate the world of great grains and to incorporate new flours into your baking.

Now Your Cooking With Great Grains

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Gluten-free flours have different properties than wheat flour. Here are some basic guidelines for storing and using them successfully. Always use a combination of gluten-free flours, rather than just one. No single flour will do the trick. See page 62 for suggestions on basic flour combos that work best. To replace gluten properties in baking, use xanthan gum or guar gum, thickening agents that provide the necessary structure for leavening. Potato flour can also be used to improve structure.

Great Grains - Shopping Guide

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Some gluten-free flours are available at your local grocery store. Others, like newcomer wine flours, can only be purchased online or from specialty and natural food stores. Here are additional sources for gluten-free flours.

Finding Balance With a Anti-Yeast-Diet

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Bee Wilder of Toronto is an active, vibrant 67-year-old woman. But she hasn’t always been this healthy. Years ago as a young single mother of two, Wilder suffered from a long list of chronic medical issues—recurrent bladder and vaginal infections, acid reflux, headaches, irritable bowel syndrome and other digestive problems—which had her physicians scratching their heads. She was sick for over 25 years with one malady or another as doctors treated each symptom as an unrelated illness. “My migraines were so severe that I would sometimes pass out. Often I had to rely on my mother to care for my children – and me,” Wilder says. Then in 1985, Kathleen Kerr, MD, one of Wilder’s physicians, suggested that Wilder read The Yeast Connection, by William Crook, MD. In his book, Crook contended that yeast infections were responsible for a host of health problems he was seeing in his patients. It seemed far-fetched to Wilder, the idea that all her seemingly unrelated problems could be caused by an overgrowth of something that occurs naturally in the body. But Kerr insisted that Wilder take the yeast issue seriously. That insistence, says Wilder, “saved my life.”

Is It Yeast?

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The symptoms of thrush, athlete’s foot, jock itch or vaginal infection are easily diagnosed. But other yeast-induced infections are harder to spot. Often patients have a diverse collection of seemingly unrelated symptoms. Here’s how to help determine if you have a yeast problem.

Steps to Eating Healthy

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Find a physician who is knowledgeable about yeast overgrowth. Clean up your diet. Eat yogurt and kefir with live cultures and no added sugar. Limit or avoid sugar and simple carbohydrates. Consume fewer starchy vegetables.

Yeast and Autistic Spectrum Disorder

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If your child is on the autistic spectrum, consider having him or her tested for systemic Candida infection. ASD children can show symptoms of candidiasis —gas, bloating, “drunken” behaviors, such as uneven gait or inappropriate laughter.

Tell Me More About Yeast

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For more information about dysbiosis and ways to treat yeast overgrowth, check out these resources...

Departments

Life Story

A Specialist on Celiac Disease

One in 133 Americans has celiac disease yet only 3 percent have been diagnosed. Why is this chronic condition still being under- diagnosed and what are some common misperceptions?

Your Child and Multiple Food Allergies

Anxiety. That’s the diagnosis my obstetrician gave me after I told him of my tight chest and racing heart. He chalked it up to stress, natural during the early weeks of pregnancy, he said. But I knew the anxiety had little to do with my condition. It stemmed from something different—food allergies. In addition to the joy I felt about my second pregnancy, I was worried about my firstborn. Joseph, my 5-year-old son, is severely allergic to peanut, tree nuts, wheat, milk, egg and soy. He also has asthma, an additional risk because his allergic reactions are more likely to include bronchospasm, a symptom that constricts air passages. Bronchospasm may not respond to antihistamines and may need quick treatment. Would Joseph be safe when I was in the hospital giving birth? And would I be able to balance the care of two children with one so allergic?

So Good

Gluten-Free - Dairy-Free Holiday Baking

This is my favorite time of year. Number one reason? The cookies! Baking and sharing cookies is guaranteed to spread cheer while bringing yuletide warmth and fragrance to your home. These festive cookies are simple to make, contain no wheat or dairy and can be made egg free. That doesn’t mean good taste has been compromised. Here are delicious recipes that are guaranteed to please. Handcrafted cookies make memorable presents for everyone on your gift list. Put a selection of cookies in colorful containers or arrange them on pretty plates or dishes. Wrap with cellophane and tie with fancy raffia to delight your family, friends and your children’s teachers. ’Tis the season to celebrate your special diet. Enjoy Christmas cookies without the allergens. These gluten-free, dairy-free treats deliver the best of flavorful baking traditions and plenty of merry.

Gluten-Free Cookie Flour Mix

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Gluten-Free Cookie Flour Mix

Shopping List for Gluten-Free Cookies

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Ingredients shopping for gluten-free holiday cookies.

Improving Your Gluten-Free Pie Recipes

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Few things feel more sacrosanct than the traditional recipes we prepare year after year for holiday dinner. The slightest variation has been known to set off a family revolt. I used to be as guilty as the next person when it came to varying my menu, clinging to the safety of my tried-and-true gluten-free recipes. But times have changed in my kitchen. My friendship with innovative chef and food writer Rebecca Reilly (see her recipes using Cabernet flour on page 46) regularly inspires me to incorporate new ingredients into my baking. Pulling together this issue’s “Great Grains” (page 17) has broadened my culinary horizons even more. When it comes to baking on a special diet, it is heartening to know that there are more solutions than challenges.

Tastey Gluten-Free Holiday Recipes

Want to avoid gluten and dairy while enjoying a traditional holiday meal? Use these recipes and tips to safely savor the season’s best—a memorable turkey dinner with all the wonderful trimmings. The secret to creating a moist, delicious turkey dinner is selecting the best bird and then properly cooking it. We’ve got you covered on both points. The following innovative menu is gluten free and dairy free and yet offers something for everyone. Round out the meal with your favorite cranberry sauce, steamed green beans, a fresh salad and Coconut Pumpkin Pie (page 37) or Chocolate Cabernet Spice Cake with Creamy Chocolate Frosting. Enjoy!

Gobble Up Your Gluten-Free Turkey!

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How much turkey do you need? Rule of thumb: Allow ¾ to 1 pound per person, more if you want leftovers. Follow these guidelines for baking your unstuffed bird in a preheated 325-degree oven.

Talking Gluten-Free Turkey

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What’s in your turkey? Some birds are injected with additives or are sold with gravy packets that contain a variety of ingredients. For best results, choose a fresh bird, preferably free range. Read labels carefully. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer.

Celebrate The Chinese New Year Food Allergy Free Asian Cuisine

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Do you avoid Chinese restaurants because so much on the menu, particularly the sauces, contains ingredients you must avoid, like wheat, gluten, MSG, peanuts or tree nuts? It’s time to dust off your chopsticks and rethink Asian fare. We’ve found a gluten-free, dairy-free, allergy-friendly way to herald in the Year of the Ox. The following recipes were collected from Asian-style restaurants that deliciously capitalize on the ethnic flavors you’ve been missing. Created by expert chefs, these recipes are designed for preparation in your kitchen. So go ahead. Enjoy a taste of the Far East without leaving home. And make a resolution to welcome Chinese foods back into your special diet.

Hold the Gluten - Order Safely at These Allergy Friendly Restaurants!

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Many of the best Asian flavors—ginger, garlic, rice vinegar, wheat-free tamari, sesame oil, most chili pastes, most fish sauces—are gluten free. Read labels carefully and check with the manufacturer if you’re not sure. For gluten-free soy sauce, try LaChoy (www.lachoy.com) or San-J Wheat-Free Tamari (www.san-j.com).

Cabernet Flour The Grape Transformation - Gluten-Free Flower

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In a classic story of trash to treasure, the processed byproduct of cabernet winemaking is available as a tasty gluten-free flour. Like the grapes it’s made from, cabernet flour contains omega 3 and 6, vitamin A, iron, potassium, fiber and resveratrol, a natural anti-oxidant that helps keep the heart healthy and wards off cancer. Cabernet flour lends its beautiful purple hue to your favorite recipes. Add 1 teaspoon to 1½ tablespoons per cup of flour (no more than 25 percent of the total flour used in your recipe). The lower the concentration, the lighter the color. When used in pasta, for example, pasta color can range from pale lavender-mauve to a chocolate-burgundy, depending on the amount used.

Tell Me More About Cabernet Flour

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For more about cabernet flour or to order your own supply, contact...

The Perfect Allergy Free Pasta

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To form pasta strips, cut the dough into 4 or more pieces. Roll each piece out into very thin, rectangular sheets. Do this on a counter (lightly dusted with cornstarch) or roll the dough between two long pieces of plastic (use a heavy-duty zip-lock bag cut in two). Trim the dough into even rectangles. Lightly dust with cornstarch. Roll the rectangle sheet up from the short end of the rectangle. Using a sharp knife, cut the roll into uniform strips in desired width. Unroll each piece and place it on a tray dusted with cornstarch. Continue this process until all the pasta is rolled and cut. Cover the raw pasta and store it in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

House Call

Allergy and Food Sensitivity Q&A

FOOD ALLERGIES AFFECT MORE THAN 12 MILLION AMERICANS, INCLUDING 6 PERCENT OF CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF THREE. ALLERGIC REACTIONS CAN RANGE FROM MILD TO ANAPHYLAXIS, A SERIOUS CONDITION THAT CAN CAUSE HIVES, SWELLING, NAUSEA, CLOSING OF THE BREATHING PASSAGES AND EVEN DEATH. THERE IS NO CURE, JUST THE STRICT AVOIDANCE OF THE OFFENDING FOODS. NINETY PERCENT OF ALL FOOD ALLERGIES ARE CAUSED BY EIGHT FOODS: WHEAT, MILK, PEANUTS, TREE NUTS, EGG, SOY, FISH AND SHELLFISH.

Research Roundup: Findings on BPA

In early September, the National Toxicology Program (NTP) released its final report on bisphenol A, or BPA, a synthetic chemical found in, among other things, polycarbonate plastic containers and the epoxy linings of canned foods. Humans are exposed to BPA throughout their lifetimes and many scientists have expressed concern that this repeated exposure may have negative health consequences. But study findings have been somewhat controversial since research so far has been conducted with rodents and may not represent what happens in humans. The NTP report found that human exposure to BPA is of “some concern” when it comes to its effects on prostate and brain development and for behavioral effects in fetuses, infants and children. The report also expresses “minimal concern” that exposure affects mammary gland development or early puberty in females. The report states “negligible concern” that exposure during pregnancy can result in fetal or infant mortality, birth defects or reduced birth weight. For the full report, visit www. cerhr.niehs.nih.gov.

Try it

Living Without Favorites: Wrap It Up

Great news for gluten-free, dairy-free, corn-free diners who long for a safe and tasty tortilla. Food for Life Baking Company, a family-owned and operated specialty bakery, offers tortillas made with brown rice flour. These good-sized tortillas hold firm, each one large enough to serve two.

Living Without Favorites: Munch a Bunch

Food Should Taste Good is a company name. It’s also the mission of this company that produces wholesome chips with unique flavors like olive, jalapeno and even chocolate. Three new varieties just hitting the market are Buffalo (zesty, zingy, pepper-vinegar), Sweet Potato (crunchy, nutty, slightly sweet), and The Works (minced onion, garlic, poppy, caraway seeds).

Living Without Favorites: All That Glitters

Want to add sparkle, not chemicals or allergens, to your holiday cookies? Enhance your baked goods with gluten-free, dairy-free Sprinkelz. These colorful new toppings from Edward & Sons are available in chocolate, carnival and confetti varieties. The all-vegan toppings derive their vivid hues from the natural extracts of seeds, fruits and vegetables.

Living Without Favorites: Good Thinking

’Tis the season to overindulge. When you’re ready to begin shedding some of those unwanted holiday pounds, thinkThin. A quick, convenient way to stave off hunger pangs with a super-dose of nutrients (18 essential vitamins, plus antioxidants and omega 3 fatty acids) and no sugar, thinkThin bars are gluten free and contain a whopping 20 grams of protein. If chocolate is your favorite food group, these bars may be your new best friend. Five of the seven flavors contain chocolate.

Read it

Living Without Books: Back to Basics

Memoir, philosophy, political science, economics, poetic prose. They’re all rolled into one book about one of our favorite subjects—food. Animal, Vegetable, Miracle—A Year of Food Life (HarperCollins) by award-winning novelist Barbara Kingsolver is a great armchair read and an inspiration to start a garden, even if it’s only a pot of herbs on your window sill. Moving her family from the Arizona desert to Virginia’s rural countryside, Kingsolver chronicles the “adventure of realigning our lives with our food chain.”

Living Without Books: Go West!

Take a peek into the best of the West from a food perspective. Author Pamela Sinclair puts together a delicious collection of recipes from some of Wyoming's most distinctive restaurants, resorts and inns in A Taste of Wyoming, Favorite Recipes from the Cowboy State (Far Country Press). Fabulous photos by Paulette Phlipot make this cookbook a pretty addition to your kitchen library.

Living Without Books: Gluten-Free Goodness

Introducing an innovative approach to special diet cooking. You Won't Believe It's Gluten-Free! 500 Delicious, Foolproof Recipes for Healthy Living (Da Capo) by the doyenne of gluten-free cooking, Roben Ryberg, is a new way to create old favorites. Pick your dish—peach cobbler, chocolate chip cookies, fish and chips, crackers, bagels, chicken nuggets, doughnuts, waffles. Then pick your flour base—corn, potato, rice, oats.

Living Without Books: Homegrown Global Cuisine

From her Los Angeles subdivision, Bon Appetit veteran contributor Jeanne Kelley takes you into the realm of urban sustainability with her beautiful cookbook, Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes—Recipes from a Modern Kitchen Garden (Running Press). Kelley shares the joy of homegrown fresh, organic vegetables, Ameraucana chickens (the source of her sky-blue eggs) and fresh milk from her pet goat.

Living Without Books: Dreams Come True

Are you dairy free and dreaming of ice cream? Wake up and smell the Coffee or Rum Raisin or Pumpkin Pie Ice Dream. Just in time for the holidays, Rachel Albert-Matesz authors The Ice Dream Cookbook (Planetary Press), a publication offering all-natural dessert alternatives, including multiple flavor variations of ice dream, a gourmet frozen dessert made creamy with coconut milk.

Make it

Gluten-Free Holiday Shortbread Cookies

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Our gluten-free, dairy-free cover stars were created by Nancy Rutherford, owner of Rolling in Dough, Kethchum, Idaho. Another historic recipe by Yellowstone National Park executive sous chef Mike Dean is requested so frequently by visitors that it’s printed on cards and given to guests. Once you taste these flavorsome beans, you’ll know why the recipe has become a treasured souvenir.


Food for Thought

All in the Family

When my brother and I were kids—and at each other throats for the umpteenth time—my dad would sit us down and say, “All you’ve got is each other.” I’ve said those same words to my wife: All we’ve got is each other. I was referring to the feeling of being alone as we raise our 9-year-old son, Mike, who has both type-1 diabetes and celiac disease. Friends and family are well intentioned but sometimes they just don’t get it. Not long ago Grandma was still saying, “He wouldn’t need insulin if he ate more vegetables.” While my wife and I do have each other to rely on, the sense—and the stress—of it being ‘just us’ takes its toll nonetheless. And that feeling is especially poignant each year at my family’s holiday dinners.


In Every Issue

Editor's Note

We Hear You / Events

Grapevine/Tender Touch

Ask the Chefs